Haines, AK Part One
Hello trip diary! It has been a long time, not entirely my fault. Except for here and there, we have not had a consistent internet connection since Kicking Horse, BC which was over 1500 miles and many, many weeks ago so this has made it difficult to keep things up to date. Hopefully we'll get everything up to date over the next few weeks as we have been many amazing places that we can't wait to share with everybody.
Currently we are in Haines, AK for some "spring" skiing which in Alaska translates into a watered down version of winter! Currently it is dumping the white stuff with about 12 inches of accumulated snow in town meaning there are many more inches to be enjoyed in the mountains. You wouldn’t believe what April 4th looks like in the North Country. Calf deep snow or mud, 14+ hours of daylight and no sign of a bud on a tree anywhere…yet. We took lots of pictures so we can compare what it looks like in 6-8 weeks when we drive back through when it’s springtime.
As for Haines, many hours Ryan, Radar and I have spent designing the "perfect" town for us in our heads. It would be a small town on the ocean surrounded by mountains with skiing, mountain biking, wildlife and stick chasing opportunities abounding. If that's perfection, then pulling into Haines was like driving into one’s dream! Once we made the turn off the Alaska Highway onto the Haines Highway, the treed landscape of the boreal forest quickly gave way to the massive, white peaks of Alaska and snow as far as the eye can see. Everything continues to be completely frozen over and buried in the white stuff given it the look of a moonscape. The high point of the highway is Chilkat Pass which, we were excited to see, had several clear options for backcountry skiing right from the car. After the pass, the highway begins its descent to the ocean. The road winds through a lush valley that mirrors the Chilkat River which is unique in that the water of the Chilkat River flows all year round due thermals that keep the water warmer then most waterways in the area. The mild water temperature ensures a late salmon run and as a result, the valley is home to over 4000 bald eagles each winter as well as moose, bear and wolves coming to feed at it’s banks. It is amazing to think that at certain points in the year the people of Haines, population 2000, are outnumbered 2 to 1 by bald eagles! If ever you have seen a picture of 5 and 6 bald eagles perched in a tree, it has likely been taken at the Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve. Another truly spectacular sight courtesy of Mother Nature.
The road finally comes to an end about 300 feet from the ocean and it is on this 300 feet that the RV park where we are staying, aptly named the Oceanside, resides. What views!!! Situated on the banks of the cove next to the marina, we have sweeping views of the ocean with a backdrop of the snowy peaks of the Coast Range rising 10,000+ feet in elevation. These behemoths rise right out of the ocean with waves breaking on the rocks of their bases. The village of Haines was established on the shores of Portage Cove with it's original inhabitants being the people of the Chilkat and Chilkoot Tlingits (pronounced Klinkit). The natural resources of the area were so plentiful that the living was "easy' for these tribes and with less time needed to focus on survival skills, they were able to hone their artistic skills creating beautiful goat wool blankets, spruce root baskets, totem poles and other wood carvings. Lucky for us the local Tlingit population continues practicing their crafts today ensuring a glimpse of history in the present day. In the late 1700's, a successful fur trade was established utilizing marine routes only with the appearance of the first white men to the area. It wasn't until 100 years later that a toll road was established inland to the Yukon by an entrepreneur named Dalton who took the opportunity to make his fortune charging gold prospectors for the use of his road. Haines current economy is based on the fishing, timber and tourism industries with a prominent local and native arts scene.
What drew Ryan and I to the area was the skiing. For those not familiar with Haines' ski lore, the town has made a prominent name for itself in the ski world due to it's access to what is arguably the most challenging terrain for big mountain skiing in North America and perhaps the world. If you need a visual, pick up just about any recent ski movie and fast forward to the section on big mountain skiing in Alaska and chances are the footage was filmed in Haines. One professional skier describes skiing Haines this way "Once you can ski anywhere in the world perfectly then it's time to come to Haines, AK to challenge yourself." So you may be asking yourself "What on earth are Ryan and Kimberly going to do there then?" Great question and one that we have contemplated ourselves.......
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